Electrical Switches

The most common switch in your house is a single-pole switch with a toggle marked “On” and “Off.” It typically is used to control a light fixture or a receptacle. Single-pole simply refers to electricity flowing in one direction. In most cases, one black (hot) wire is connected to one terminal screw (or it might be back wired), and a second hot wire is connected to the other terminal screw, proceeding on to the light. In terms of physics, a pole is just one of two opposite points on a magnet that manifest the magnetic properties. (Remember, a spinning magnet, called a dynamo, at your utility’s power plant creates the electric current.) Unlike older switches, modern versions often come with a ground terminal for the green or bare copper ground wire.
A single-pole switch controls the current to its load from one location only. Other witches control the current from two or even three different locations

There’s One for Every Purpose

The world of electrical devices is quite varied. The light switch in your bedroom isn’t quite the same as those at the top and bottom of your staircase. The latter most likely are three-way switches (possibly four-way), which control an electrical load (in this case, the light) from more than one location. You might have an emergency switch that controls your oil furnace or a timer switch connected to a bathroom fan. You need to know one from another when you go to replace an existing switch or install a new one.
Receptacles are no different. You’re already familiar with a standard duplex outlet (your house is full of them) and a GFCI receptacle. There also are single receptacles that take one plug, receptacles for clothes dryers and electric ranges that carry both 120 and 240 volts, and special hospital-grade receptacles. Older homes might have original unpolarized receptacles or even some old twist-lock-style receptacles. You have to know what you’re dealing with before you replace it; otherwise, you could create a hazardous situation.
As always, follow the unwritten rule of electrical work: Buy only UL-approved materials. The world of Internet trading and crashing trade barriers means more nonlisted devices than ever will be available, but stick with the tried and true, even if your code allows the others. You want some assurances that you’re buying a safe product.

Switches and Receptacles

We use them every day, but we don’t think about them much. This is a good indication of the reliability of switches and receptacles. A bathroom light switch, for example, might be clicked on and off 10 times a day (depending on the size of your family). That’s a few thousand clicks each year, and the switch keeps going and going. If only our computers and operating systems were that reliable. A switch controls the flow of electricity between a source and an end device such as a light fixture. In a standard modern light switch, a metal arm inside the switch connects the two screw terminals to which the black, or hot, wires are connected. In the “Off” position, this arm moves out of the way and cuts off the flow of electricity along the conductors.
Receptacles don’t face as much mechanical wear and tear as a switch undergoes. A common house receptacle is called a duplex receptacle because it can accommodate two plugs. The metal connector between the screw terminals is fixed in place, unlike the movable arm in a switch. Each prong of a plug is held in place by two pieces of spring metal to maintain a solid electrical contact.
Both switches and receptacles can wear out, especially the original ones in an old home.

Cleanup and Wall-Repair Woes

In an existing house, any extensive rewiring will require opening up some walls and ceilings by cutting into the drywall or plaster. Electricians have two conflicting issues here: One voice—yours—says keep the holes small; the other voice—the electrician’s—says a larger hole makes the job easier and faster. Guess which one wins out? I’m not against electricians, and no, it doesn’t mean they’re going to knock a three-foot-bythree-foot hole in your wall just to pull one wire through it. It does mean, however, that you’ll have some wall and ceiling repairs to do after the electrician is finished. Drywall and plaster repair costs need to be figured into your electrical budget unless you do the work yourself. It doesn’t stop there, however. Your electrician might have to drill through paneling or wallpaper whose patching is a little more problematic. If a room hasn’t been painted in many years, the paint will have faded and won’t necessarily match up very well with the can of Colonial blue latex sitting in the garage. Figure this into your planning costs so it’s not such a surprise later.

A Deal’s a Deal

After you’ve agreed to the job and have signed on the dotted line, you have to hold up your end of things, too. This means … Clearing furniture and household items out of the way so your electrician can work.

• Keeping your children at a safe distance from the work activity.
• Controlling your pets.
• Providing access to your house, either with a key or by being home at the start of the workday.
• Understanding that your contractor and any crew will need access to a bathroom and somewhere to take their breaks.
• Paying your bill in a timely manner. Small contractors are especially dependent on regular cash flow, and you shouldn’t unnecessarily delay payment.

Being a good customer is just as important as being a good contractor—all good contractors have stories about customers from hell.

What is a Change Orders?

A change order is a modification to a contract. It can be initiated by either you or your contractor, but it must be agreed to by both. You might decide to add more lights, for example, or a different type of fixture. Your electrician might run across unforeseen problems such as an existing circuit that must be replaced (when you assumed it could still be used). A change order usually means an increase in the price of the job, but this is not always the case. You might decide to eliminate some fixtures or to go for less-expensive ones, thus lowering your overall cost. The best change order, ideally, is no change order. Change orders can delay a job and might cause your electrician to have to undo work completed under your original specifications to accommodate the requested change. No plan is perfect. Remodeling is a fluid experience. As it progresses, you might see things you did not see during the planning stages. A skylight in the bedroom might become more desirable than the track lighting that just went in this morning. Don’t laugh, I had a client with more money than sense who did just that. Out came the new drywall and lights; in went new skylights and windows into newly finished rooms. At least he kept the carpenters employed and happy.

About Those Electrical Contracts

Some contractors—and homeowners—want a written contract for everything. This is unnecessary for small jobs, but there’s no harm in writing up a short letter of intent. You could say, for example, “Contractor will supply all labor and materials for one new bathroom circuit with GFCI receptacle for the sum of ______ dollars plus applicable tax. Homeowner will take care of any wall repair or patching.” For that matter, your contractor might supply a contract form for small jobs with a written description of the work and ask for your signature to confirm your acceptance. Larger jobs usually require a written contract. If your electrician is hesitant to provide one or to sign yours, find someone else to do the work. No legitimate contractor will shy away from a valid contract.
A contract should include everything you want done. Don’t assume that your electrician can read your mind and will install cream-colored receptacles when white is more common. If you have any questions, ask before you sign.

Comparing Bids

A clear set of plans and specifications enables all the bidding electricians to play by the same set of ground rules. It also helps you fairly compare their prices. You’ll find, as you put a job out to bid, that each electrician has a slightly different take on how to do the work and what materials to use. Keep these suggestions in mind as you scrutinize the bids so you can adjust for specific differences in cost. Let’s say you want a standard, switch-controlled light to be installed outside your garage. One of your bidders might suggest that you put in a motion detector instead, which will automatically turn on the light when it detects someone moving nearby. Another bidder might suggest that you install a larger ventilation fan in your kitchen. The service panel is the big item. If you specify one brand and an electrician recommends another, find out why and compare the differences in cost by calling an electrical wholesaler.

Allowing Substitutions

As remodeling bids come in and budgets get stretched, your imported marble countertop might suddenly become plastic laminate and your oak floor might become vinyl. The same is true with electrical work. Lights, appliances, and garage-door openers are available in a range of models and prices. Sometimes your electrician can come up with an equivalent-model fixture at a lower price with no appreciable difference in quality or appearance. Your bids and specifications should allow for such substitutions.

Who Draws the Electrical Instalation Plan?

You, your designer, or your electrician will draw up or sketch any plans for the electrical work. Written descriptions (“locate panel in NE corner of basement”) usually are adequate for most residential jobs. Specific light locations, however, should be noted on a sketch or plan of the room. It’s not a bad idea to put some kind of marker on the wall, such as blue masking tape, to confirm the location. An architect’s or designer’s plans for a general remodel should note any electrical requirements.