Sock It to Your Socket

In addition to damaged plugs, lamp sockets also are a regular culprit when a lamp won’t light. The socket itself doesn’t wear out, but the switch does. Several types of replacement sockets are available including …
➤ Pull chain.
➤ Twist knob.
➤ Push lever.
➤ Remote.
It’s easiest to replace your existing socket with one of the same style. Follow these steps to inspect and replace your socket:

1. Unplug the lamp.
2. Look at the outer shell of your socket. If it says “Press,” you can squeeze the socket and pull it out. If not, your socket is held in by screws, or the socket and harp (the frame for the lampshade) are secured to a threaded metal tube that runs the height of the lamp and is bolted at the base.
3. With the socket removed, check the wire connections at the screw terminals. If they’re tight, loosen the screws and remove the wires.
4. Test for continuity by placing your tester’s clip on one prong of the plug. Put the probe on the black wire and then the neutral wire. Put the clip on the other prong and repeat the test. If the tester’s bulb doesn’t light for either prong, you’ve got a bad cord and plug, and they’ll need to be replaced.
5. When you’ve determined that the socket is the source of your lamp woes, replace it with a new one with matching volt and amp ratings. Remember to attach the neutral wire in the ribbed or ridged insulation to the silver screw terminal and to attach the black or hot wire to the brass screw terminal.
6. Slide the insulating cardboard sleeve and outer shell over the socket and install in the lamp snuggly. (It fits into the lamp cap.)
7. Reinstall the harp, shade, and bulb and then test.

Round-Cord Plugs

These are made for heavier-duty loads and loads needing a grounding plug. The terminal screws also are more substantial than on smaller, flatcord plugs such as those on lamps and radios.
Follow these steps to install a round-cord plug:

1. Cut the cord end clean with lineman’s pliers or a combination tool.
2. If there’s an insulating disc with the new plug, remove it.
3. Pass the cord through the clamp on the rear of the plug.
4. Strip two to three inches of insulation from the round cord and 3⁄4-inch of insulation from the hot, neutral, and grounding wires. Tighten the clamp.
5. Take the black wire and the white wire and tie an underwriter’s knot as close as you can to the cut edge of the insulation on the cord.
6. Wrap or hook the end of the black wire around the brass terminal screw going in a clockwise direction. Do the same with the neutral wire and the silver terminal as well as the grounding conductor and the green terminal.
7. Tighten the terminal screws securely. Make sure the wires are not touching each other.
8. Install the insulating disc.

Bugged by Bad Plugs

An intact plug has straight prongs, a solid casing, and a cardboard insulating faceplate or disc (unless the entire plug is solid plastic). If the prongs are bent, the casing cracked, or the faceplate missing, replace the plug.
Plugs come in a variety of styles including …

➤ Flat-cord plugs.
➤ Quick-connect plugs.
➤ Polarized plugs.
➤ Round-cord plugs.

The easiest plug to install is a quick-connect plug. The prongs of the quick-connect plug can be removed from the casing by squeezing them together. By spreading them, the lamp cord can be inserted. To attach a quick-connect plug, squeeze the prongs together and slide them back into the casing. You don’t have to do any work on the wire; just follow the instructions on the package. Be sure the plug is rated for the load to which you’re attaching it. (You won’t get away with a quick plug on a heavy-duty portable appliance, for example.)
To replace a flat-cord plug, disassemble the casing on the new plug, pull apart the two halves of the lamp cord to the length of two inches or so, strip the insulation off the ends of each half, wrap the wires clockwise around the screw terminals, and reassemble the casing. The quick-connect plug is the easier of these two to install, but it’s not the best choice for a lamp that’s unplugged often.