Monday, November 30, 2009

Understanding Light Fixture

Changing a light fixture can be more involved than simply replacing a switch or a receptacle. Switches and receptacles almost always are housed in electrical boxes, but this isn’t always true for light fixtures. If the system is old or has been hacked at enough, you can disassemble an old ceiling light only to find a couple of wires dangling through the plaster without the hint of a box. As you should know by now, this is a dangerous situation because all wire connections must take place within a box. You might feel like cheating by continuing the status quo, but don’t. You’ll need to install a new box (unless one’s already there).
Lights usually get replaced because tastes change. Old fixtures don’t often wear out, since they have no moving parts (unlike a switch). Historic or not, the original hanging lights in your Craftsman home might be ugly to your eyes, or you might want to replace more modern fixtures with replication period fixtures to restore your home closer to its original condition.
The usual safety precautions apply to replacing fixtures that apply to any other electrical work—turning the power off is number one—but now you’ll sometimes be working off a ladder. For that matter, two of you might be working off two ladders if you have to remove an especially heavy or delicate fixture such as a chandelier. One thing is for certain: With the huge selection of new fixtures to choose from, you’re bound to find a replacement that will dress up any room in your house.

Considerations in Choosing Light Types


The most comfortable light in many instances is natural sunlight. (You may think differently if you live in the Sahara desert.) If you’re remodeling or adding on to your house, think about adding more windows and skylights. Millwork companies can custom match any existing wood window or come close enough with stock material. There are enough vinyl and aluminum window manufacturers around that you should be able to find one that will look like part of your house. Paint color also affects the impact of light, both natural and electric. Light colors will be the most reflective, but they might not be your first choice in certain rooms. Balance out your color choice with adequate lighting. Finally, look at your choice of controls or switches. Dimmers are inexpensive, and they greatly expand your options in any room. One minute your living room is washed in light for your Scrabble club’s monthly game; the next minute it’s dimmed way low for you and your jo. (Scottish for “sweetheart,” this word works great on a triple-word score.)

What to Do of Cheap Power Reigns?


At one point in the 1980s, it was estimated that the cost of residential electricity in Seattle was one tenth the cost in New York City. If it’s any consolation, our delicatessens weren’t anything to write home about. The cost differential isn’t that great anymore, but we’re still below the national average. Lower costs aren’t necessarily a justification for excessive use of electricity, but they will determine whether more efficient fluorescent lamps will ever pay off for you.
Basically, the higher your electricity costs run beyond the national average (around 8¢ per KWH), the more cost-effective fluorescent lights will be in your home. This doesn’t mean they will work well for all your lighting needs from a cost standpoint. The longer a light is continually on, the better a candidate it is for a fluorescent lamp. An occasionally used attic or storage-room light is best left with an incandescent lamp. Some fixtures, such as recessed ceiling lights, might not have room for a fluorescent lamp.